“Arrive here as a stranger but depart as a friend.”

— Guest Journal entry, 1955

As if this stretch of coastline couldn’t be any more magical, there’s a special inn nestled under redwoods where time stands still: Deetjen’s. It was initially just a small stopover for guest traveling on the wagon road before it became completed and the famous Highway One and then Helmuth and Helen Deetjen began welcoming guests in 1930.

There’s no service. There’s no WiFi. There’s no noise… except the Castro Canyon Creek that flows all year round. The energy here is special and unlike any other. If you’re looking for a stay that brings you back in time and is a true reset, you might want to add this inn to your Big Sur itinerary.

An Enchanting Experience

I have been wanting to stay here for a long time but it never aligned. The time I had spent in Big Sur years ago, I was pretty broke and living out of my van. I didn’t have spending money for anything other than gas, food, and water. When I found myself in Big Sur again, I had a little more wiggle room in my wallet and I wanted to experience this area in a different way. It’s definitely not the cheapest lodging but they do offer a 30% discount in the winter season.

I booked Petite Cuisine mostly because it was the cheapest room but also because it was the only room truly intended for solo travelers. I felt called and it ended up holding more magic than I ever expected. It had a tiny but comfortable single bed and a small kitchen area (hence the name) but no place to cook. There were two books and two teapots that were filled with hundreds of notes from solo travelers past. I spent hours reading through all of their different stories of why they were pushed out here alone. It was a good reminder that we aren’t all that different.

I booked a stay for 5 days and it was around $330 (with the discount) and honestly, I thought that was an amazing deal. Most lodging is a minimum of $150 per night and this equalled about $66 per night. For the off season, it was still pretty busy with guests and the restaurant was even busier. If you can’t book a stay, I highly recommend at least stopping for breakfast or dinner if you’re passing through this part of Big Sur. Breakfast is everyday 8am-12pm and dinner is 5:30pm-9pm but only Tuesday through Friday.

Each morning, I woke up around 7 am and walked down to the coffee/tea table. I poured myself a green tea and embraced my unplugged morning. I’d take a walk outside and see the inn cats (Andrea pictured above). Around 8 am, I’d walk over to the restaurant with my book for breakfast. I had been reading A State of Wonder by Ann Patchett. The first morning I was there, I ordered a very traditional American breakfast of eggs, potatoes, sausage, and toast. I hadn’t been cooking often in my van so I was craving a warm and hearty plate. The next morning, I tried their gluten free pancakes and they were some of the best I’ve ever had. They also had pretty good options in general offering gluten free bread and multiple dishes at dinner that were safe. I had the vegetarian risotto one evening filled with a variety of vegetables, a mushroom sauce, and parmesan. As someone who is actually gluten intolerant and not just following a trend, I always appreciate finding places where I can actually eat.

During the day, it was quiet there and I took advantage of that. I wanted to soak in as much of Deetjen’s as possible so after checking with the staff, I wandered around and popped my head into any room that was cleaned and open. Each space was absolutely timeless. I know the decor may not be everyone’s taste but many parts of this inn were inspiration for my future...whatever I have.

When I wasn’t relaxing around the inn, I went out to explore nearby. The Henry Miller Library and Pfeiffer State Park are a must see. I did the longer trail to the falls and was able to see some amazing patches of redwoods on the way. It was quiet here too but the weather was lovely. I really recommend visiting Big Sur this time of year to avoid crowds. And of course, what’s a trip to Big Sur if you don’t take a scenic drive at sunset. This stretch of coastline never gets old and I love watching the way the sun makes the hills glow for miles and miles.

Deetjen’s honestly feels like an extension of my soul. I loved how much character the walls held. I loved how the decor felt untouched. The dark, rustic palette was moody but felt welcoming at the same time. My room provided much comfort after weeks of traveling and feeling a bit lost. I felt safe for the first time and like I could truly rest.

I loved watching the light dance through the curtains mid-afternoon. I loved taking a moment to think about everyone who had stayed here before me and everyone who will stay here after. There was magical energy that was palpable. One of my last evenings there, a gentle fog rolled in just before sunset and created the most beautiful conditions. The property came alive and there was a golden glow all around.

My week at Deetjen’s was my first time truly being out of service in years… which is a little embarrassing to admit. I have spent a day or two out of service but not like this. To wake up without checking my phone and to fall asleep to the pages of my book was a real luxury. I am so grateful for my work and that I get to do what I love but I’m a one woman show and as I become busier, it becomes more difficult to really take time away. There’s always soemthign to do, always an email to answer, always administrative work to catch up on.

Deetjen’s is a place that forces you to actually slow down and disconnect because there is no cell service and they don’t offer WiFi. I think it’s one of the many things that makes the experience so special and I hope they never change that. So if you stay here, embrace the discomfort of not having distraction. Talk to a stranger at a bar in the restaurant. You never know what you might find or what story you may need to hear. There is something for everyone here just waiting to be uncovered.

As always, all of the film shot for this blog was developed and digitally scanned by Negative Lab in Los Angeles. I have been sending my film here for 3 years now and I am always pleased with the quality and consistency of my scans. I cannot express the difference the lab makes! If you’re interested in giving them a try, use ‘WILD15’ for 15% off your first purchase. For transparency, I do not make any money when you use this code but I do receive a discount off my processing services by spreading the good word. Whether you’ve read this post, gave a like, purchased a print, or use my code, every little bit helps keep me doing what I love. I thank you so much for being here. For more work and easier updates, follow me on Instagram. Until next time. With love, stay wild ~ Jess.

A Historical Stay in Big Sur, California

“Arrive here as a stranger but depart as a friend.”

An Enchanting Experience

Back to My Roots: Leaving Vermont for the Road